The Technology Behind Luxury Authentication: AI and Expert Collaboration
It’s probably a safe bet to say that for as long as humans have been making things there have been counterfeits. Chroniclers in Ancient Rome tell us that coins, gems, and luxury clothing were all common targets for fakes. Later, in 13th century China, guards had to be posted in mulberry forests to prevent forgers from counterfeiting paper money made from the trees. And beginning in 17th century England, demand for the sensational new drink ‘tea’ was so high that counterfeiters created fake, sometimes noxious concoctions to dupe drinkers.
Today, all manner of goods continue to be counterfeited, from perfume to electronics. However, the standout target for the counterfeit trade has long been luxury apparel and accessories. These items are highly desirable, often difficult to obtain and can sell for substantial sum—the perfect conditions for breeding fakes. What’s more, these counterfeiters are becoming increasingly sophisticated in their duping techniques, making it harder to pick up on the subtle signs of fakery with just the naked eye.
So, what’s the world’s leading online luxury resale marketplace to do? Invent an all-new AI-powered luxury authentication solution of course.
How AI Luxury Authentication Helps Catch Counterfeit Goods
For the general public, widespread AI use only started in 2022 or so. However, The RealReal was ahead of the curve, first implementing artificial intelligence into their process in 2018. The technology was initially used to help identify an item’s physical attributes (colors, materials, etc.) and streamline the item description writing process. This innovation made one of the most labor-intensive processes in reselling far more efficient and was critical to helping the business scale successfully. Over time, TRR has continuously refined that original model, improving its accuracy.
During this initial success, TRR developed a robust proprietary database of brand- and item-specific attributes. Ultimately, this data was used to help create two more AI-driven programs specifically meant to assist with authentication, known as Shield and Vision:
- Shield is the first step in TRR’s multi-step authentication process. It’s a machine-learning model that examines more than 50 attributes on each item. The attributes are used to identify “high risk” products and prioritize them for review by the most experienced authenticators.
- Vision is a proprietary photo-based tool that examines microscopic images of an item to help predict the likelihood that it’s counterfeit. It looks at fine details like leather grain and threading, which can be particularly challenging for the human eye to distinguish.
Together, these programs provide fast, nuanced and sophisticated filtering early in the authentication process. In many cases, they can identify a counterfeit immediately, saving substantial human power in the process. However, even when they can’t eliminate an item immediately, they can provide significant assistance for human authenticators. AI-driven observations help TRR staff work more strategically by drawing their attention to critical details that require an expert eye.
Expert Human Authentication Remains Irreplaceable
As powerful as these new AI tools are, they remain just that—tools. To be successful, humans with extensive knowledge and meticulous training must wield them. That’s why TRR employs hundreds of luxury goods experts as authenticators. Their ranks include gemologists, horologists and even brand experts who joined directly from the luxury brands themselves. Together, this team hand examines every single one of the thousands of items added to The RealReal daily.
Once an item has passed through Vision and Shield, and those programs have flagged any specific points of concern, the authenticator will conduct a thorough physical inspection. During this process, they’ll look for details like:
- Serial numbers
- Maker’s marks
- Artisan signatures
- Whether the right materials were used, and in the correct combinations
- If the weight and measurements are correct
- Whether the brand colors match
- Monogram/logo design, size, and placement
Authenticators also use this hands-on time to assess the kinds of details the AI programs simply can’t clock (at least, not yet). These include factors like the feel of the fabric or the smell of the leather. With their extensive brand-specific experience and ongoing professional training, even these ephemeral elements can be clear indicators of an otherwise indistinguishable dupe. Finally, once this thorough inspection is complete and all the item’s attributes are assessed as a whole, an authenticator can make a final determination.
What Happens to Counterfeits Caught by The RealReal?
Once a fake is caught, whether by AI or an authenticator, TRR removes it from the luxury goods market permanently. Since 2011, TRR has taken a quarter of a million counterfeit items out of circulation. The vast majority of these have been destroyed, though a select few have been used to creatively inform the public about the prevalence of luxury forgeries.
The reasons for this policy go beyond simply ‘good business’. As an organization founded on an abiding love for the exceptional craftsmanship of luxury items, TRR is committed to preventing counterfeits from undercutting the livelihoods of craftspeople. These pieces are the intellectual property of the designers and artisans that created them. Fighting the theft of that property is critical to supporting their professional and creative longevity.
The Future of AI Authentication for Luxury Goods
Unfortunately, though principled shopping and stronger regulations may help to deter counterfeiters over time, it’s unlikely they’ll ever be driven out of business entirely. Instead, it’s far more likely that their methods will simply adapt over time. That means the AI algorithms used to catch their fakes will need to continue to evolve as well. The RealReal’s AI programs are constantly being refined as new items are added to the database. What’s more, the quality control team regularly conducts accuracy tests to ensure both programs are performing optimally. Thanks to this ongoing commitment to protecting authenticity, members can have absolute trust whenever they shop The RealReal.
Hunting for hard-to-find, pre-owned luxury pieces? Interested in freeing up some closet space by consigning your own luxury goods? The RealReal makes buying and selling the world’s most coveted clothing and accessories virtually effortless. We handle all of the work for our consigners, including the painstaking process of AI-assisted authentication, to give our more than 36 million members unprecedented peace of mind as they shop for their next incredible find.
