As Gucciphiles are well aware, when Alessandro Michele took the reins of the Florentine house in 2015, everything from ready-to-wear to home decor received a decadent, over-the-top overhaul. Gucci’s signature sneaker, the Ace, was no exception (and we’re not surprised it was our most-Obsessed sneaker for men last year). Applying his “more-is-more” approach to the Ace, Michele transformed it into a new, must-have classic. But as its popularity has surged, counterfeit versions of the coveted shoe are appearing left and right. Read on as our Chief Authenticator, Graham Wetzbarger, dives into the oft overlooked details that define the real thing.
Gucci Ace Sneaker Materials
Though there are nearly infinite variations of the Ace, many appear in classic white calfskin, colored leathers and GG Supreme coated canvas, with a rubber sole and contrasting accent at the heel. “Gucci Ace heel accents are often made of snakeskin or crocodile,” explains Wetzbarger. “It adds a luxury component to an otherwise utilitarian sneaker, as does the shearling trim accompanying select styles.” Aces will also feature uncoated flat cotton shoelaces with plastic aglets. “Note that if you’re looking for a pair in the resale market, the shoelaces may have been replaced,” says Wetzbarger. “This could affect the value, but definitely not the authenticity of the shoe itself.”
Gucci Ace Sneaker Construction
Real Gucci Ace sneakers possess a clean, streamlined appearance, with a stitched line delineating the padded ankle from the shoe’s heel. The insole should fit snugly within the shoe’s interior, without any gaps or buckling. Perhaps the most notable feature of the shoe is its beloved woven Web accent. The traditional green and red colorway is a fan favorite, though color combinations abound. “The Web should be stitched down with tonal stitching, and not glued,” notes Wetzbarger. “The Web often has decorations such as embroidery, appliqués, studs and crystals. Look for quality craftsmanship and consistency in embellishments when inspecting an Ace.”
The shoe’s rubber sole should be smooth at the front, with a textured accent that wraps around from midsole to midsole. The grip at the bottom should also feature Gucci’s signature wave pattern, with the debossed Gucci knight symbol at the center. Gucci’s standard logo and “made in italy” should also be included near the ball of the foot. “Counterfeits may be blank, or have a sticker,” says Wetzbarger. The rubber sole should also be attached to the leather or coated canvas upper with perfect, evenly spaced stitching. “There should be no visible glue or doubled stitches,” he adds.
Gucci Ace Sneaker Hardware
Gucci Ace sneaker embellishments should be of the utmost quality. “If an Ace has the Marmont feline head, it should be very well cast with a lot of detail,” says Wetzbarger. “Pearls should be perfectly halved and round, with a clean, even finish, and studs should be well-affixed and in the proper tone — brushed nickel, antique brass or polished brass.” At the sneaker’s laces, eyelets should always be two perfectly matched rings at the interior and exterior. “If the interior eyelet is flayed or split metal instead of a perfect circle, that’s a sign of inauthenticity,” says Wetzbarger. “The eyelets should also match the shoe — white eyelets for white leather versions, antique brass for coated canvas versions, et cetera.”
Gucci Ace Sneaker Brand Identifiers
In addition to markings at the rubber sole, authentic Gucci Aces should include “GUCCI” stamped or printed at the contrasting accent at the heel. “Crocodile versions of the accent may have it debossed,” notes Wetzbarger. The shoe’s inner sole should also be debossed with “GUCCI / made in italy.”
A style number and the shoe’s size should also be present. “While this information is normally debossed on the sneaker’s tongue, in some cases it’s included on an interior side panel,” says Wetzbarger.