Every January, watch retailers, journalists and collectors from around the world converge in Geneva for the first watch show of the year, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Over 30 of the best watchmaking brands in the world showcase their wares in an ultra-luxurious trade show nestled between the snow-covered Swiss Alps. It is here that the stage is set for new trends in watchmaking for the year and beyond. And if you couldn’t make the trip to Geneva this year, don’t worry, we’ve spotted some of the top trends from the show.
The ever-popular chronograph timing watch is experiencing a resurgence this year. Brands are breathing new life into their chronographs, introducing both bold, sporty styles and a return to more refined, classic cases. Audemars Piguet is marking the 25th anniversary of its iconic Royal Oak Offshore, which was first launched in 1993, with three new sporty, robust chronograph watches. Montblanc, on the other hand, took the refined look with its Star Legacy Chronograph Reussiac that features a 30-minute chronograph displayed on two subdials and a second time zone. A. Lange & Sohne introduced a highly complicated Triple Split Chronograph able to time two events at the same time for up to 12 hours. Baume & Mercier Classima XL Watch; IWC Aquatimer Watch; Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronograph Watch
While the chronograph remains the most universally popular complication in watches, other mechanical functions are highly prized by collectors. The power reserve complication indicates how much time is left before your watch will stop due to lack of winding, much like a fuel gauge in a car. Vacheron Constantin this year incorporated a power reserve indicator into its new FiftySix Day-Date watch. IWC is presenting a jumping-hour complication this year, in which the numerical hour is displayed through a window and changes or “jumps” at the beginning of each hour. This retro-inspired piece is based on a pocket watch made by IWC in the 1880s. Van Cleef & Arpels has updated one of its most unusual complications in a ladies timepiece: the Lady Arpels Planetarium. The watch displays the movement of planets Mercury, Venus, Earth and the moon as they revolve around the sun over the course of 365 days. Audemars Piguet Classique Watch; Van Cleef & Arpels Monsieur Watch; A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Watch
Sleek Slim Cases
Unadorned, understated slim men’s dress watches have gained more importance at this year’s show. Piaget has created the world’s slimmest automatic-winding watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P. At just 4.30 millimeters thick, it breaks the previous record held by the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique, which measures 5.15 millimeters. Other slim watches (although not record-breaking) include the new Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic featuring a new silicon balance spring. Cartier has slimmed down its Drive do Cartier watch with a version named the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat that measures just 6.6 millimeters thick.Girard-Perregaux 1966 Classique Watch; Audemars Piguet Classique Watch; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar Watch
Shop more watch picks from the world’s top brands in our edit here.