3 Underrated Watch Brands You Should Consign Now

Watch brands like Rolex and Cartier are titans of the industry, but are there brands that can beat them when it comes to resale value?

We asked Senior Director of Fine Jewelry & Watches Michael Groffenberger to talk about three lesser-known watch brands — Nomos, Vacheron Constantin and Zenith — whose watches fetch just as much, and in some cases more, on the resale market than timepieces by the most recognized watchmakers in the industry. Whether it’s an up-and-coming brand gaining recognition among aficionados or one with a storied history that simply produces fewer watches than the big players, these underrated watch brands may not be household names, but they’re not to be discounted when you’re considering consigning from your collection. And if you’re looking to add something to your arsenal that will hold its value in the future, they present the opportunity to make a sound investment in something you might not find on everyone else’s wrist.

How does the resale value of these three brands stack up against bigger brands like Rolex and Cartier?
In certain cases resale value on these brands can be stronger, as the quantity of product available is very small and the buyers are generally seeking out special models that may be unavailable through other channels. A good example of this is Vacheron Constantin; while they are the oldest watch brand in the world that has continuously been in operation, they only produce around 20,000 watches per year. That means it takes Vacheron 50 years to produce approximately as many watches as Rolex makes in one year.

Vacheron Constantin Watches: Vintage Dress Watch, $3,950; Overseas Chronometer Watch, $4,900; Egerie Watch, $6,750

Are you seeing any trends in lesser-known brands becoming more popular?
I think Nomos is a good example of this. Because they are accessibly priced, and deliver high quality pieces, they have become somewhat of a cult brand. With very little marketing, they are now well-known in watch circles as the best watch you can buy under $5k on the market today. All from a little town in Saxony.

 Nomos Lambda in Rosegold

What distinguishes these three brands from one another and how do these differences play into their value?
Vacheron is a pillar of fine watchmaking. They have an extensive heritage and produce some of the most expensive watches in the world. Nomos does not have as much heritage; they have really only become popular in the past three years or so, which in many ways makes them much more flexible in their strategy. They are writing their own history in today’s watch industry.

Zenith has heritage, but mostly as a movement manufacture. Their awareness as a brand has become more significant recently because they are able to offer one of the best chronograph movements on the market (The El Primero) at a price that is substantially less than lower quality in-house movements from other brands. Zenith and Nomos are focused on value, whereas Vacheron is focused on heritage, prestige and unwavering commitment to perfection. Their motto is, “Do better if possible, and that is always possible.”

How much does the rarity or difficulty of purchasing these brands play into their value?
They are all rare in their own right; it would really depend on the model. Certainly some rare models of Vacheron can sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars on our site, given the incredibly small production. A good example of this is the new Harmony mono-pusher split second chronograph. They are only producing 25 of these for the world. I expect this to do very well in our marketplace over the next few years, even at a starting price that is in the mid-six figures.